In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mercedes Amans, Head of Product at ClearSTEM, to explore the evolving science and strategy behind formulating products that are both acne-safe and anti-aging. Mercedes shares how ClearSTEM challenges outdated definitions of comedogenicity, leverages data from real consumers, and uses biotech innovation to fill a major gap in skincare. From ingredient myth-busting to the limitations of current testing methods, this episode is a masterclass for anyone working at the intersection of skin sensitivity, science, and beauty.
Takeaways:
• Acne + Aging Can Coexist: ClearSTEM is disrupting the belief that anti-aging products must sacrifice acne safety—and vice versa.
• Not All “Clean” is Acne-Safe: Many natural or clean-labeled ingredients (like coconut oil or algae extracts) are actually highly comedogenic.
• Testing Matters: ClearSTEM prioritizes follicular biopsy testing and sensitive-skin clinical trials to ensure safety and efficacy for acne-prone consumers.
• Surfacing Safe Surfactants: With improved technologies like glycolipids and phospholipids, it’s now possible to build effective non-irritating formulas without traditional PEGs or polysorbates.
• Cleansing is Key: A good cleanser twice a day is foundational—especially in today’s pollution-heavy, sunscreen-drenched environment.
• Biotech = The Future: Biotech ingredients offer clean, sustainable, high-performance options—but consumer education still lags behind.
• Label Confusion: Terms like “non-comedogenic” or “natural” are often meaningless without standardized testing and transparency.
Timestamps:
00:00 – Start
02:41 – The origins of ClearSTEM and its acne-safe, anti-aging mission
06:26 – Emotional toll of acne and the gap in product options
07:50 – What "acne-safe" really means in formulation
10:12 – Testing on sensitive skin and the role of hydration/barrier support
12:35 – The flaws in current comedogenicity testing
14:23 – Why follicular biopsy testing matters
15:37 – Ingredient synergy vs. formulation chassis in clogging risk
17:28 – Real-person testing and iterative product development
18:23 – Anti-aging ingredients helping with acne scarring
21:05 – Why coconut oil and seaweed may be bad for acne-prone skin
24:24 – Sponsor break: Tagra’s encapsulation tech
25:39 – How surfactants and delivery systems affect acne
27:27 – Avoiding ethoxylated ingredients and formulating with newer tech
29:15 – Balancing cleansing efficacy with barrier protection
32:32 – Why twice-daily cleansing matters for acne
34:26 – Dermatologists vs. estheticians: Collaboration in skincare
38:33 – The importance of inclusive, multi-perspective product design
41:26 – Busting the “clean = acne-safe” myth
43:21 – How consumer education shapes ClearSTEM’s marketing
46:09 – The chaos of retail vs. value of direct-to-consumer education
48:32 – What excites Mercedes in future acne/aging innovation
49:54 – Biotech: Performance potential and supply chain control
52:17 – Future of the acne category and staying ahead with ClearSTEM
54:28 – Where to learn more about ClearSTEM