Skin barrier repair is one of the most used phrases in skincare — and one of the least understood. In this episode, cosmetic scientist and PhD researcher Ava Perkins uses the biology of premature infant skin to expose what the industry consistently gets wrong about barrier function, NMF, and what…
Software founders building their first cosmetics brand consistently underestimate one thing: physical goods don't move at startup speed. Supply chain, sampling, lead times — these are months to years, not days to weeks. John Morgan discusses the most common misconception he still hears from clients. #cosmeticchemist #beautyindustry #productdevelopment #founderstory #demystifyingcosmetics
Single-source complex ingredients are a liability. The real game is leveraging common manufacturing economics while differentiating through specialized biotech ingredients — and finding the sweet spot that matches your customer. John Morgan on what he calls "the whole game." #cosmeticchemist #formulationstrategy #beautyfounder #ingredientscience #demystifyingcosmetics
The longer you work in cosmetic science, the harder it gets to trust brand claims. Cosmetic chemist and PhD researcher Ava Perkins on why she now asks every brand the same thing — show me the clinicals. #skincarescience #cosmeticchemist #skinclaims #beautyindustry #formulators #demystifyingcosmetics
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with John Morgan, founder of Pelagic, about the invisible infrastructure behind beauty brands and why supply chain may now be the biggest constraint on innovation, sustainability, and scale. From raw material sourcing and formulation flexibility to tariffs, oil volatility, redundancy, planning, and…
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Gloria Lu, cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions, about how skincare ingredient trends actually move through the beauty industry, and why some ingredients keep resurfacing while others burn hot and fade fast. From niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to peptides, ceramides,…
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Kailey Brandt — chemical engineer and CEO of Sonsie — about what sustainability actually looks like when you move beyond marketing claims and into the real constraints of formulation, sourcing, packaging, cost, and consumer education. Together, they unpack why “natural” is…
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Dr. Brent Ridge — physician, co-founder of Beekman 1802, and Chairman of Kindness.org — about building a clinically grounded skincare brand rooted in kindness. What began as goat milk soap made during the 2008 recession evolved into a longevity-focused brand centered…
In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Dr. Brent Ridge—physician, public health graduate, MBA, co-founder of Beekman 1802, and chairman of kindness.org. The conversation explores how Beekman started not as a beauty brand but from a chance farmhouse purchase, recession job loss, and a note from a farmer…
paper on the Yanomami skin microbiome reveals—and what it challenges about "healthy skin." Using the Yanomami as an evolutionary reference point, Larry explains how industrialized life has dramatically reduced microbial diversity and function, why the missing piece may be a protective environmental biofilm, and why simple "microbiome-friendly" claims can outpace…
In this special episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson steps away from formulation talk to address what many are asking right now: what are we supposed to do? With recent events in Minneapolis and the broader climate around immigration and civil rights, people are feeling overwhelmed and looking at…
In this episode, Jennifer sits down with Alec Batis, whose 30+ year career in beauty spans R&D, marketing, and brand ownership. Alec shares his journey from L'Oréal chemist to founder of Sweet Chemistry, a science-backed skincare brand developed with SUNY Downstate Medical Center. The conversation explores the intersection of chemistry…
In this 30-minute conversation, Becki pulls back the curtain on what it really takes to write responsibly in beauty media. We talk about the pressures of maintaining editorial independence in a world of brand partnerships, and the blurred lines between transparency, trust, and truth. From navigating terms like “clean” and…
Manufacturing is where beauty dreams are either built or broken. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we go past the mood boards and into the factory with Andrea Cid—founder of Miami Growth Machine and owner of Concept II Cosmetics. With a global background spanning Chile, the U.S., the U.K., and…
What do your products look like to the world? Beyond INCI lists and claims, beauty brands are built—visually. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer Cookson is joined by Anderson, the creative mind behind A-Son Agency and By-Anderson, whose photography brings brand philosophies to life. We explore how product photography,…
The beauty industry is buzzing with terms like “lab-grown,” “bioengineered,” and “nature-identical”—but what do these really mean, and how much of it is science versus storytelling? In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re joined by David Breslauer, a synthetic biologist and the co-founder and CTO of Bolt Threads, a pioneering…
What makes a beauty brand truly memorable? In this 40-minute episode, verbal identity strategist Taylor de Diego shares how she helps brands uncover their whitespace and build a voice that’s unmistakably theirs. Taylor shares her journey from working at L'Oréal and MAC Cosmetics to launching her own company after experiencing…
Fragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry. From sustainable sourcing and ethical formulation to helping…
Fragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry. From sustainable sourcing and ethical formulation to helping…
Fragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry. From sustainable sourcing and ethical formulation to helping…
Fragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry. With a degree in aroma and formulation science…
In this candid 30-minute conversation, James Dillard shares what he wishes he had known before launching a new cosmetic ingredient—and what every formulator, brand founder, and raw material supplier should understand about the realities of innovation in beauty. We explore: Why scientific elegance isn’t enough—and what actually moves decision-makers, the…
Today’s episode dives into the fragrant but often foggy world of fragrance in cosmetics. Joining us is Ashlee Posner, co-founder of Lucent Labs, a fragrance and formulation partner helping brands navigate the space between creativity, compliance, and consumer trust. Together, we explore the tension between artistry and regulation in scent:…
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Mark Broussard of Desert In Bloom Cosmetics Lab unpacks skin minimalism. Join us as we explore why streamlined routines are on the rise, how multifunctional actives make all the difference, and what it means for the future of product formulation.