Episodes

Before-and-after photos don't measure whether your skincare is working. They measure what already happened — weeks ago, at a biological level you can't see in a mirror. Dr. Maria Feliva, Co-Founder & CEO of CheckGen, joins Jennifer Cookson on Demystifying Cosmetics to break down molecular-level skin testing, Why the industry's standard measurement tools miss what actually matters, and what retinol is doing to your skin cells in the first 30 days. What you will learn in this episode: — Why b...

Skin barrier repair is one of the most used phrases in skincare — and one of the least understood. In this episode, cosmetic scientist and PhD researcher Ava Perkins uses the biology of premature infant skin to expose what the industry consistently gets wrong about barrier function, NMF, and what short-term hydration claims actually prove. Jennifer Cookson sits down with Ava — whose background spans cosmetic formulation science, pharmaceutical biomembrane research, and science communication — t...

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with John Morgan, founder of Pelagic, about the invisible infrastructure behind beauty brands and why the supply chain may now be the biggest constraint on innovation, sustainability, and scale. From raw material sourcing and formulation flexibility to tariffs, oil volatility, redundancy, planning, and retailer pressure, this conversation breaks down the operating realities consumers never see, but that shape every product decision behin...

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Gloria Lu, cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions, about how skincare ingredient trends actually move through the beauty industry, and why some ingredients keep resurfacing while others burn hot and fade fast. From niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to peptides, ceramides, bakuchiol, growth factors, and exosomes, they unpack what separates real topical potential from hype-driven storytelling. The conversation explores ...

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Kailey Brandt — chemical engineer and CEO of Sonsie — about what sustainability actually looks like when you move beyond marketing claims and into the real constraints of formulation, sourcing, packaging, cost, and consumer education. Together, they unpack why “natural” is not always more sustainable, how biotech is changing what’s possible in beauty, and why transparency has to go deeper than front-of-pack language. The conversati...

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Dr. Brent Ridge — physician, co-founder of Beekman 1802, and Chairman of Kindness.org — about building a clinically grounded skincare brand rooted in kindness.What began as goat milk soap made during the 2008 recession evolved into a longevity-focused brand centered on skin barrier health, microbiome-friendly formulation, and disciplined clinical claims. Dr. Ridge shares how goat milk's pH alignment, oligosaccharides, and emerging e...

In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Dr. Brent Ridge—physician, public health graduate, MBA, co-founder of Beekman 1802, and chairman of kindness.org. The conversation explores how Beekman started not as a beauty brand but from a chance farmhouse purchase, recession job loss, and a note from a farmer losing his herd of 100 goats. Dr. Ridge explains why goat milk's pH matches skin's barrier, how oligosaccharides serve as prebiotics for the microbiome, and why they're extracting g...

paper on the Yanomami skin microbiome reveals—and what it challenges about "healthy skin." Using the Yanomami as an evolutionary reference point, Larry explains how industrialized life has dramatically reduced microbial diversity and function, why the missing piece may be a protective environmental biofilm, and why simple "microbiome-friendly" claims can outpace the science. Together, they explore what health should mean (resilience, not just "not sick"), why our tools still have major limitatio...

In this special episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson steps away from formulation talk to address what many are asking right now: what are we supposed to do? With recent events in Minneapolis and the broader climate around immigration and civil rights, people are feeling overwhelmed and looking at one lever they still control—where they spend their money. Jennifer explores corporate stances, boycotts versus buycotts, and what actually makes a difference. She makes the case tha...

In this episode, Jennifer sits down with Alec Batis, whose 30+ year career in beauty spans R&D, marketing, and brand ownership. Alec shares his journey from L'Oréal chemist to founder of Sweet Chemistry, a science-backed skincare brand developed with SUNY Downstate Medical Center. The conversation explores the intersection of chemistry and marketing, the reality of cost-of-goods in beauty formulation, and building a values-driven brand in a prestige-obsessed industry. Key Takeaways: Caree...

Manufacturing is where beauty dreams are either built or broken. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we go past the mood boards and into the factory with Andrea Cid—founder of Miami Growth Machine and owner of Concept II Cosmetics. With a global background spanning Chile, the U.S., the U.K., and Asia (Harvard Economics; Wharton MBA), Andrea breaks down what “small batch” really means—volumes, costs, and flexibility—and why it’s mission-critical for emerging brands. We dig into the realiti...

What do your products look like to the world? Beyond INCI lists and claims, beauty brands are built—visually. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer Cookson is joined by Anderson, the creative mind behind A-Son Agency and By-Anderson, whose photography brings brand philosophies to life. We explore how product photography, creative direction, and brand identity intersect to tell a cohesive visual story. Whether you’re a founder, marketer, or formulator, this episode will make you thi...

In this 30-minute conversation, Becki pulls back the curtain on what it really takes to write responsibly in beauty media. We talk about the pressures of maintaining editorial independence in a world of brand partnerships, and the blurred lines between transparency, trust, and truth.From navigating terms like “clean” and “non-toxic,” to resisting the urge to oversimplify complex science for the sake of a headline, Becki shares how she treads the gray areas with care. We also dive into how her vo...

The beauty industry is buzzing with terms like “lab-grown,” “bioengineered,” and “nature-identical”—but what do these really mean, and how much of it is science versus storytelling? In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re joined by David Breslauer, a synthetic biologist and the co-founder and CTO of Bolt Threads, a pioneering biomaterials company known for innovations like lab-grown spider silk and mycelium-based leather.David brings deep expertise in synthetic biology and materials sci...

What makes a beauty brand truly memorable? In this 40-minute episode, verbal identity strategist Taylor de Diego shares how she helps brands uncover their whitespace and build a voice that’s unmistakably theirs.Taylor shares her journey from working at L'Oréal and MAC Cosmetics to launching her own company after experiencing firsthand the frustration of finding the right foundation shade.The conversation explores how AI and computer vision are transforming the beauty industry, the challenges of ...

Fragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry.With a degree in aroma and formulation science from the UK and experience spanning global fragrance houses including L'Oréal and as EU fragrance head for Ecover and Method, Cassandra brings rare expertise bridging c...

In this candid 30-minute conversation, James Dillard shares what he wishes he had known before launching a new cosmetic ingredient—and what every formulator, brand founder, and raw material supplier should understand about the realities of innovation in beauty. We explore: Why scientific elegance isn’t enough—and what actually moves decision-makers, the invisible gatekeepers that stall ingredient adoption, how messaging, not just molecule design, shapes commercial success, why the industry’s nar...

Today’s episode dives into the fragrant but often foggy world of fragrance in cosmetics. Joining us is Ashlee Posner, co-founder of Lucent Labs, a fragrance and formulation partner helping brands navigate the space between creativity, compliance, and consumer trust.Together, we explore the tension between artistry and regulation in scent:Why fragrance is often called a “black box” on ingredient labelsWhat brands don’t have to tell you—and whyWhat’s really hiding under the word “fragrance”Whether...

In this episode, we're exploring the rising trend of skinminimalism: the art and science of streamlining your skincare without sacrificing performance. To help break it down, we're joined by Mark Broussard, founder of Desert in Bloom Lab—a formulation and manufacturing expert who's built a career helping brands create high-performing, science-forward products with purpose.Together, we explore:What skinminimalism really means for consumers and brandsThe difference between functional ingredients a...

From "low-impact formulas" to "carbon-neutral packaging," beauty brands love a sustainability claim—but what are those claims really based on? In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we sit down with Evan Peters, founder of Fairglo, to unpack the promise and pitfalls of Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) in the cosmetics industry. We go beyond the buzzwords to explore how system boundaries, data gaps, and marketing spin can shape—and sometimes distort—what LCAs actually reveal about a produc...

On this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re going deep with Victoria Fu—former L'Oréal chemist and one half of the dynamic duo behind Chemist Confessions. Known for blending scientific rigor with internet-savvy wit, Victoria shares how she and co-founder Gloria Lu built a platform that busts skincare myths, translates chemistry into everyday language, and formulates products that actually deliver.From navigating the hype cycles of “clean beauty” to defending misunderstood ingredients and si...

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with retired chemistry professor and visionary educator Dr. Colleen Kelley, creator of Kids Chemical Solutions. Colleen shares how her comic books and playful curriculum are transforming how children—and adults—learn chemistry by treating it as a language. From teaching molecular literacy as early as age eight to shaping more informed consumers, Colleen makes the case that chemistry fluency is not only possible at a young ag...

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mercedes Amans, Head of Product at ClearSTEM, to explore the evolving science and strategy behind formulating products that are both acne-safe and anti-aging. Mercedes shares how ClearSTEM challenges outdated definitions of comedogenicity, leverages data from real consumers, and uses biotech innovation to fill a major gap in skincare. From ingredient myth-busting to the limitations of current testing methods, this ep...

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with beauty trend strategist Marta Ponzone, founder of Terra Innovation Studio. Marta unpacks the power of micro trends and how they differ from fleeting fads. She shares how brands—big and small—can detect, validate, and act on emerging signals to stay ahead in a saturated market. They dive deep into the evolving role of AI, the influence of Asian beauty formats, and how brands can balance innovation with brand integrity...