In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Eva Sandnes, a seasoned natural product development consultant with over 20 years of experience in cosmetic formulation. They dive deep into the complex journey of transforming a beauty concept into a market-ready product, exploring the challenges of scale-up, regulatory compliance, and ingredient selection. Eva shares her extensive expertise in emulsion chemistry, product stability, and the critical considerations brands must navigate to successfully launch a cosmetic product.
Key Takeaways
Product Development is a Long Journey
• Typical cosmetic product development takes 18-36 months
• Requires extensive testing, regulatory compliance, and careful scaling
Scale-Up Challenges
• Lab batches are not representative of final industrial products
• Viscosity, stability, and color can dramatically change during manufacturing
• Precision equipment and careful testing are crucial
Regulatory Complexity
• Different global markets have varying regulatory requirements
• EU regulations are particularly stringent, especially for sunscreens
• Comprehensive documentation is essential
Ingredient Selection Matters
• Choose ingredients from reliable sources
• Conduct thorough safety and toxicity testing
• Consider long-term availability and market trends
Technical Expertise is Critical
• Having technical knowledge in-house or through consultation can save time and reduce risks
• Understanding material compatibility and formulation nuances is key
Timestamps
00:00 - Start
00:28 - Episode Introduction
02:10 - Overview of Product Development Process
04:23 - Scaling Up and Stability Testing
09:09 - Challenges for Indie Brands
15:41 - Emulsion Stability Strategies
27:49 - Regulatory Compliance Insights
46:27 - Ingredient and Formulation Trends
52:31 - Final Thoughts on Industry Improvement